"They said that clothing may seem like a futile trivial matter, but its role is far more important than keeping warm. They can change our view of the world, and it can also change the world's view of us."
--Virginia Woolf, "Orlando"
From Bloomsbury to Borghese
The first FENDI series designed by Kim Jones started with extraordinary romance and immortal creativity, inspired by the rebellious British sensibility of the Bloomsbury Group, and paid tribute to the legendary history of the Roman brand FENDI. In the FENDI 2021 spring and summer haute couture series, seemingly different sources of inspiration have found commonalities and intertwined with each other: it explores the enduring charm of the free creation of Virginia Woolf and Vanessa Bell, The timeless Italian sculptural language and FENDI's basic fashion guidelines. As Virginia Woolf wrote in "Orlando": "Memory is like a seamstress, but also a wayward seamstress."
Taking this novel that describes the passage of time and space and blurs the boundaries of dual gender as the central theme; time and space are reversed, and the exquisite femininity and handsome masculine charm become a fluid and interchangeable choice, rather than an inherent reality. "Orlando" is a love letter written by Virginia Woolf to Vita Sackville-West (Vita Sackville-West) in 1928, only three years after FENDI was founded. The literary concept of "Orlando" is interspersed throughout the high-definition series, sometimes with metal-bound book clutches, and sometimes embellished with fritillary treasure boxes or leather boots with the inscriptions in the book. The excerpts of the courtship letterheads of Virginia and Weita during the ten-year period were read by FENDI's close friends and family members, and were presented on the show with the music of composer Max Richter.
The Charleston Farmhouse is the gathering place of Bloomsbury in Sussex, close to Jones' childhood home. The decorative patterns he found there have been recreated through gorgeous beaded boots and hand-painted high heels. Interpretation; the wall paintings of the farmhouse, created by Vanessa Bell and Duncan Grant (Duncan Grant), are transformed into embroidered decorations on the dress. "I like the people in this family, especially the way this pioneering pair of sisters (Virginia Woolf and Vanessa Bell) push things forward." Jones said, "I admire their way of life. The freedom they created for themselves, and the art they left behind for the world."
Hand-printed by Virginia Woolf and Leonard Woolf for Hogarth Press, marble-bound books are displayed in the collection of books and manuscripts exhibited with the fashion show, seamlessly connected to Italian classical aesthetics. They contrast with the marble tones of Galleria Borghese in Rome. There, Bernini's sculpture reminds me of the light and ethereal fabrics full of drama in the Haute Couture series, showing the harmony between the two literary schools (Vanessa Bell is very fascinated by Italian classicism , She will even paint in the Borghese garden, or copy the works of classical masters, and hang them on the wall of the Charleston farmhouse). On the woven jacquard and silk dresses, on the inlaid fur and handmade beads, the marble pattern has become the main visual language of this series.
The history of FENDI is also the source of the creation of this series, reinterpreted through Jones' contemporary perspective: the designer took inspiration from the collection of historical archives and laid the decorative tone of the Haute Couture series. The velvet ribbon on the vintage handbag is re-interpreted with a new design; the Karligraphy pattern on the boots is derived from Karl Lagerfeld's last season.
Whether it is a real family member or a family member of our choice, the importance of family is promoted by the models in this high-end series, who are displayed in a glass house. "FENDI interprets the top craftsmanship skills. Everything here is about the family. It has been helmed by the third generation of the family, and I am the guest protagonist, introducing all this to the next generation. Here, I am strong and confident. Surrounded by women, I love and respect them, and hope to bring their energy into my work.” Jones said.
Traveling in time, from the romantic feelings and sensibility of Bloomsbury to the free journey of Rome's Galleria Borghese marble tones.
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