How to choose men's down jackets from 300 to 30,000?

2022-10-17 06:01

If you think of fashion as a vanity fair, down jackets are probably the most black and red item among them. Regarding down jackets, we always have a lot of myths and worries: Too much love to drill hair, often makes people think that we are a shed goose; too bloated, and immediately transformed into a Michelin tire person; not easy to clean, dare not send it to a dry cleaner. Don't dare to use the washing machine.

Few people are willing to directly admit their love for it, but in every winter when the cold air arrives rapidly, there is no more reassuring destination than its warm and fluffy embrace.

In recent years, many fashion brands have faded away from arrogance and prejudice, and turned their attention to the down jackets of the king of pragmatism. More and more fashionable designs have begun to appear, and the colors and patterns have become richer. Of course, there have also been a lot of "down jacket confusions". Behavior", such as this:

Excluding these "freedom-over-fire" styles, we still have a lot of choice instead of just going around between Canda Goose and Moncler. From warmth to fashion, our expectation for a down jacket is no longer as simple as hardcore and cold resistance.

1. From ugliness to beauty: the counterattack of a down jacket

The initial birth of down jackets was based on the most primitive and instinctive human survival needs. A more widely accepted theory is that in 1936, American Eddie Bauer invented the first down jacket called "Skyliner". It was a thrilling experience that gave him the idea of ​​inventing the down jacket. He almost died because of hypothermia when he was on a fishing trip with friends in the middle of the winter of 1935.

For the rest of his life, he decided to invent an extremely warm clothing. He wrapped the down between the quilting and applied for a patent in 1940, which is the "bread" we often wear now.

Because of its excellent warmth, it was loved by American soldiers at the time, and it also laid the tone for the supremacy of pragmatism in the down jacket.

For example, the Sierra Parka, which is still loved by mountaineering enthusiasts, is actually the first down product of The North Face. It was born in 1968. Sierra means jagged mountain in English.

Or everyone wants to have a Moncler, which was originally a brand that made down sleeping bags at the foot of the Alps, and then switched to ski down jackets. Lionel Terray, the first Frenchman to climb Mount Everest, usually wears Moncler.

But in the short history of down jackets, it has also appeared in a fashionable posture several times. This sculptural down jacket was designed by the talented designer Charles James in 1937. Its construction principle is the same as that of a duvet cover. It is also considered one of his most important designs.

The shoulders are wrapped in soft circular curves, and the wonderful structure injects elegant genes into the down jacket for the first time-of course, this does not mean that it is no longer practical. Because he was worried that the thick down jacket would cause inconvenience, James reduced the down filling around the neckline and cuffs.

Another well-known down jacket is the "sleeping bag jacket" designed by Norma Kamali in the early 1970s. The huge down jacket wraps the body intact like a sleeping bag, but it also has some fashionable meaning of oversize. Lady Gaga has also been touring Wearing this "sleeping bag jacket" in the concert re-enacted version.

By the 1980s, down jackets had become an important element of Milan Paninari's youth culture. Paninari refers to young people who gather in front of sandwich shops and advocate American fast food culture.

They don't love the elegance and dignity inherited from Italy. They prefer to wear casual streetwear such as Timberland, Fiorucci and Best Company. A colorful Moncler down jacket is their favorite.

Although the Paninari trend did not last long, it marked that the down jacket was no longer an ugly mobile castle, but began to fulfill people's certain aesthetic needs and marched into the fashion field.

In the 1990s, rap superstars boasted P.Diddy and Notorious BIG. People have turned down jackets into iconic symbols in urban street culture. Until now, oversize down jackets that are as thick as a quilt are still a weapon for many hip-hop singers.

Nowadays, down jackets have been on the runway, towards the buyer's store, to get rid of the earthy taste and go out of the world. So the question is, what should we choose in the face of a dazzling array of down jackets?

2. 300-30000, how much does it cost to buy down jackets?

Wearing down jackets is not poor. In winter, a good quality down jacket is hard currency. At the beginning of this year, there were reports that at least eight robberies of Canadian goose down jackets occurred in Chicago within half a month. The suspects robbed the street but only snatched the down jackets worn by the victims. No matter how careful not to expose the wealth, a big goose upper body is already very eye-catching.

The national down jacket Bosideng, which has risen at a price close to the people, also launched a 10,000-yuan down jacket this year (and it was removed from the shelves during the Double Eleven, and only resumed on November 12). Although it is a high-end series of the brand, it has also caused a wave of complaints. And a little panic: Can we even afford to wear Bosideng?

Compared with the starting position of 5,000 yuan for coats and leather jackets, the price range of 300-30000 yuan for down jackets is actually much more forgiving for our wallets. Of course, further up, you can also find a down jacket of 100,000 yuan a piece-but if you have such strength, then you can buy it with your eyes closed, no need to choose.

The price of a down jacket has a considerable relationship with its quality, parameters, and fashion level, but the influence of brand positioning cannot be ignored. We have made a rough division of the price range according to the brand type:

Perhaps the robbers who snatched the Canadian goose only knew the conspicuous logo. What they didn’t know was that the fashion brand was the king in the price sequence of down jackets. The aforementioned down jacket of nearly 100,000 yuan came from a Japanese designer. The hand of Marulong writer (Rei Kawakubo's proud pupil).

It has both fashionableness and warmth, it can be called a perfect down jacket, it just depends on whether you have the strength to rush into it...

When it comes to down jackets, Canada Goose and Moncler, which have been in the limelight over the past two years, are not only the favorites of the European royal family, but the prices are also approaching luxury brands. It's just that because it is too popular, there are so many big goose and small leagues in the street that it is difficult to distinguish between true and false.

The relatively niche "small scissors" Moose Knuckles may be a good alternative. Not only is the price more cute, but the design and performance are not lost at all. Walking on the road can also reduce the chance of bumping.

Forget the "Snow Mountain" of Supreme. For this type of explosion, hitting the shirt is not terrible, and whoever fakes is embarrassed. In fact, you still have many choices in the trendy brand down jacket, and the practice of co-branding professional down jacket brands with trendy brands is actually very common now. In addition to Supreme and TNF, there are also, for example, Beams co-branded The North Face purple label, which is relaunched. The classic Sierra Parka;

Or the joint name of South Korean fashion brand Juun.J and Canada Goose, adding extra-large external pockets and reflective tape details to the classic silhouette of the big goose, making the big goose more fashionable. You can buy two experiences for one share. If you are interested in a co-branded item, do it quickly before it gets fired.

Just like trendy brands, outdoor sports brands want to get out of the circle in this era. Co-branding is also one of their favorite ways. If you don’t believe me, TNF can attract a wave of attention by co-branding every time. Not only does it partner Supreme, but also HYKE. This type of high-end fashion brand cooperation.

However, each one has its own eyes. For people who prefer outdoor sports brands, it may not be so important to be fashionable when they are not co-branded. Real data such as cashmere filling, cashmere content, fluffy degree, etc. are the ones who carry on the winter. The most reliable guarantee during exercise.

The down jackets of fast fashion brands are the first choice for many people to get started. The cheap price makes our step towards down jackets not so heavy, and who has never been greedy for the portable warmth of Uniqlo light down jackets...

3. Which design or performance do you choose?

After the above discussion, we can roughly sum up two dimensions to measure a down jacket: design sense and practicality. The fanciful design of down jackets has been particularly popular in the past two years, and the most discussed one is the Moncler Genius series.

In order to make itself more fashionable, in February last year, Moncler invited a number of outstanding designers and creative people in the fashion industry for the first time to release a joint series. I believe you have heard of these designs that completely cross the boundaries of down jackets (or "I really don't understand fashion" in the face of these unaffordable clothes).

This year, Moncler once again attacked, bringing in new partners Matthew Williams and Richard Quinn, and also added many categories to the original lineup-such as cooperating with handbag brand Valextra to launch a down bag, and Poldo Dog Couture for your home. Wang Xingren designs down jackets for the winter.

Like this, down jackets are not regarded as down jackets, and there is also Rick Owens, who has always been known for making clothes unruly. Looking at the fashion show of the brand out of the sky, your mind will often slowly come up with a "?"-is this really a down jacket?

At the other end of the coordinate axis, some brands have embarked on the road of black technology. For example, it can be directly connected to a power bank for rapid heating-the down jacket of PEACEBIRD 2019 autumn and winter adopts iwarm technology, and the temperature of the down jacket can be adjusted through the button. There are four gears of 53 degrees, 48 ​​degrees, 43 degrees, and 38 degrees.

For example, we continue to force ourselves to death on down jacket parameters-80% of the down content of Canadian goose is already the top, but Bosideng's 10,000 yuan down jacket has to have a down content of 95% and 1000FP (fluffiness), challenging the technical limit. Now that we are talking about parameters, let's review the meaning of each parameter of the down jacket.

Filling: goose down>white duck down≥grey duck down

The stuffing of down jackets is usually goose down, duck down or a combination of both. Compared with duck down, goose down is larger, lighter, and more fluffy, less odorous, and warmer. White duck down and gray duck down have the same degree of warmth, but because the number of gray ducks is larger than that of white ducks, the relative cost of white duck down is higher.

Fluffy: the higher the value, the warmer the month

If there is no need for outdoor sports, generally speaking, you can choose a bulkiness of about 450-500 for daily wear. The bulkiness also reflects the quality of the filling. The better the quality of the filled down, the higher the bulkiness. With the same degree of warmth, a down jacket with a higher bulkiness is lighter and easier to compress and carry.

Filling amount: the lower the value, the lighter

Filling capacity refers to the number of grams of down. If you are looking for a lightweight style, you can choose a filling capacity of less than 150g.

The higher the velvet content, the less likely it is to drill down

Down content refers to the percentage of down to the total filling, which is more convincing than down filling. A down jacket with high down content will reduce the problem of down drilling.

In addition, about the question mentioned at the beginning: how to wash down jackets without throwing them into dry cleaners or washing machines? The answer is: wash by hand, and gently squeeze out the moisture after washing and dry it. Down jackets that are afraid of moisture should not be washed more. Local stains can be treated with a special cleaner for down jackets.

4. When choosing a down jacket, how to avoid minefields as much as possible?

If you don’t have a 180, try to choose a short one

The long down jacket has better warmth, but it will really make you go out after a duvet, and the whole person will be swallowed by a huge coat. A short down jacket can ensure that your body proportions will not completely collapse, and it will be less difficult to wear.

Too fit or too loose is not good

Too fit and inconvenient to stack and wear, and very tightly tied to the body like Michelin tires; too loose, not only the cold air may enter through the hem and arms, but also standing in the crowd will really look like a giant. Slightly oversize styles are best.

The material of the outer layer of the down jacket is also exquisite

In order to be light, some down jackets will use thin and light outer materials, but such materials are often easily hooked and scratched. Choose a down jacket with a slightly thicker outer layer. Although it adds some weight, it will last longer.

It has to be layered, but the outer length is short and the inner length is really unnecessary.

Multiple layers of the inner layer is an effective way to reduce the bloated feeling of the down jacket visually. Methods that can be tried include wearing a shirt over the turtleneck, or stacking a suit or coat in the down jacket.

But the inner wear that is longer than the jacket is quite challenging-unless you are very good at styling, it will inevitably feel a little weird. The following is an example of the reverse side of a 0.5-meter leg:

Straight pants are a good match for down jackets

The top down jacket and the bottom leggings will look weird due to the large contrast ratio between the top and bottom. Therefore, straight pants are often a better choice, which visually softens the swelling outline of the down jacket and emphasizes the personal proportions-but be careful not to buy Too wide-legged style, otherwise the outline of the whole person will be bigger.

Afraid of being bloated? Down vests or scarves are also good choices

In the days that have not yet cooled down, the combination of down vest + T-shirt is not a big deal.

Although the down scarf does not have much effect on the whole body insulation, it is first-class in its styling.

Down jacket is a "fashion revolution" to some extent, a challenge from pragmatism to fashionism. Perhaps today, when the boundary between practicality and fashion is no longer so clear, we can also put down our prejudices about down jackets and embrace a warm winter. After all, no matter how fashionable it is, it wouldn’t be so beautiful if it shivered in the cold wind?

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